Now that you have this fancy new site, i figured i'd ask you about the F/I pistons you carry. For starters, how much are they? do they come with rings as well? Whats the compression?

If you can't tell im in the market for a set. I just figured this would be easier than bothering you via phone at the shop.

Thanks

If it helps, I know that the pistons he offers are not direct drop in replacements. Your block will have to be bored and honed for his pistons, although I'm not sure how much.

Also, if you were to introduce a lower compression piston, would it make any changes in the driveability while not in boost? or will it effect any sensors in the car?

Hello,

The piston package I have is $875.00. This an 8.8:1 piston with pins and Total Seal file fit rings. They are oversize, so you will have to bore and hone the block. The lowering of the compression does not affect sensors or driveability. I have 26 engines out there all using the same pistons and they have been taking a beating. I have them in stock ready to ship if you need them.

Thanks T.C.

What are the advantages of these pistons over the Ripp Endyne ones?
same price i think...

They are oversize, so you will have to bore and hone the block. That means they are custom fit to your block. T.C. uses Total Seal file fit rings. This is always better than a "drop in piston". :thumbsup1:

Sounds good to me...I'd rather give my money to TC anyway

daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaam TC......I know where my next $875 is going!

What should it cost to have the block honed? I know I'm in SoCal so I'll probably get raped when the time comes.

If you have a local shop do it for you your looking at around $300.00 to $500.00 or so I'm guessing.

You could always ge a NGM Budget Racer Short Block for $2995.00 That way you know all the machine work is done properly.


"I have decided to do a budget racer short block for those of you that aren't looking to get into our all out race blocks. I have been working on this for a while to bring you guys a solid short block that will handle 400whp with a price tag of around $2995.00 I have pistons coming in, in about a week so we can assemble one of these short blocks and see just how much cost I have involved and if it would be worth it to offer to you guys. The short blocks will be prepped exactly how our race blocks are with all of the blueprinting that is done minus the 800HP rods. We will be prepping the stock rods and using our Ross Racing pistons set up for boost and our custom ring package. These short blocks will be complete down to the oil pan. I will be assembling one of these in the next few weeks and will be bringing them to market as soon as it is complete. This is a perfect alternative for those that aren't going all out and want a solid short block that will handle 400whp." Quoted from one of T.C.'s posts on NT.

We are talking about the Ross pistons right? they are the ones that need boreing... not the pistons ofcourse i ment the block for the pistons...

correct.....

What are the advantages of these pistons over the Ripp Endyne ones?
same price i think...

these arn't magical drop-in ones....i think just getting the whole block would save you some work though....a then you know everything is ready to beat on :muscles1:

just ordered these pistons today my engine popped. :doh: I also got several other goodies... go NGM! :muscles1:

just ordered these pistons today my engine popped. :doh: I also got several other goodies... go NGM! :muscles1:

how did that happen?

just ordered these pistons today my engine popped. :doh: I also got several other goodies... go NGM! :muscles1:


Were you boosting untuned?

No it was tuned at Dynocomp.....

what did you do dave....

and how are you getting those pistons in? Someone will have to machine your block...

just popped from gunning it too much, like i said on NT, AZ gas most likely helped a bit...

I already have the machine work/ install and everything worked out already :dance:

funny it just slowly got worse and worse but started with a CEL i thought might have been a false code

its cool though, its going to be much better and prepared for boost after i get some of tim's goodies in it

just popped from gunning it too much, like i said on NT, AZ gas most likely helped a bit...

I already have the machine work/ install and everything worked out already :dance:

funny it just slowly got worse and worse but started with a CEL i thought might have been a false code

off topic but, what afr were you tuned at?

just popped from gunning it too much, like i said on NT, AZ gas most likely helped a bit...

I already have the machine work/ install and everything worked out already :dance:

funny it just slowly got worse and worse but started with a CEL i thought might have been a false codeDo you have a J&S safeguard?if not it maybe needed.

off topic but, what afr were you tuned at?

12.0 about up to 3500rpms 11.5 most from 3500-6500 the way dips into 10 a little bit right at 6500

Do you have a J&S safeguard?if not it maybe needed.

I do not have a safe guard but I ordered a Alky kit from TC

and instead of just pistons I got the whole rotating assebly now so im much more better off for the future... now i dont have to worry about the rods snapping, here goes the NOS

nice... i think im taking the same route...

I also poped my engine...

What i need to check now is how much will it cost me to have everything in the car and running... Im talking about the internals... Crank, Rods, and piston etc...

What do i need to do to them? balance? I need exact answers... from A - Z, please pros reply... :P

nice... i think im taking the same route...

I also poped my engine...

What i need to check now is how much will it cost me to have everything in the car and running... Im talking about the internals... Crank, Rods, and piston etc...

What do i need to do to them? balance? I need exact answers... from A - Z, please pros reply... :P


The race blocks he sells are an awesome deal, you then just have to pay the shop to pull/install it and rebuild the rest of the engine, depending on whether or not you get the short block or long block.

Im guessing on average to get the rotating assembly installed balanced and have an engine rebuild is aprox $4k, depending on the shops rates. Or if you just do the rebuild yourself you'll save a bunch

Im going with the rotating assembly and having the engine rebuilt and having the assembly installed and some other things too, either way is a good route to go.

I'm glad to see you're gonna do the motor in your car Waj...I knew you were gettin frustrated,but with the new bottum end your Tibby world will be fixed. Did you Call TC and find out what it'll cost for the budjet racer bottum end?

The race blocks he sells are an awesome deal, you then just have to pay the shop to pull/install it and rebuild the rest of the engine, depending on whether or not you get the short block or long block.

Im guessing on average to get the rotating assembly installed balanced and have an engine rebuild is aprox $4k, depending on the shops rates. Or if you just do the rebuild yourself you'll save a bunch

Im going with the rotating assembly and having the engine rebuilt and having the assembly installed and some other things too, either way is a good route to go.

There isn't a "rest of the motor" to rebuild if you buy a short or long block...you just bolt all the other shit to the new block (heads, alternator, etc.) And honestly it isn't hard to pull and install yourself.

And just so everyone who is curious knows...ddem here is bought the rotating assembly and is having it installed for $2000...(guy would charge $2600, but he gets a deal) so with the price of the rotating assembly you are only saving $100 (thats with getting a discount on install) from just buying the whole shortblock from TC and installing yourself.

Just to give you an idea of what it would cost.

Arab countries have very cheap hand labour... or whatever u call that... installing the Charger kit, (althought i did it) but if i was going to install it... in a shop... the avarage was around 500$ + 270$ for tunning...

damn we should all move to Saudi....lol....than i have to compete with the princes and their crazy shit...instead of just my dads 500 hp S600....


I guess either way, I lose

There isn't a "rest of the motor" to rebuild if you buy a short or long block...you just bolt all the other shit to the new block (heads, alternator, etc.) And honestly it isn't hard to pull and install yourself.

And just so everyone who is curious knows...ddem here is bought the rotating assembly and is having it installed for $2000...(guy would charge $2600, but he gets a deal) so with the price of the rotating assembly you are only saving $100 (thats with getting a discount on install) from just buying the whole shortblock from TC and installing yourself.

Just to give you an idea of what it would cost.


I was refering to possibly having to replace the valve seals in the heads. And checking to see that the valves are sealing properly and dont have any leaks in them.

Even though he is charging me $2000 he is doing much more than just the tearing apart the engine, machining, and engine install. If i wasnt getting the deal he was giving me it would cost more along the lines of 4k for all the labor and extra work. :santa1:

hmmmm...I didnt know you were having problems with your valves sealing. Besides I'm not trying to say it isn't a good deal for you man. Especially since you couldn't install the block yourself. I was just trying to let everyone else know that the costs can actually be higher even though they are spending less money on the initial product.

I need to learn how to install these Pistons myself, good stuff though and the price is super nice.

yeah apparently I dont think many people are capaciable of boring out the cylinder wall correctly though

okay see there is where im not sure on how good they are in Saudi Arabia... if they can actually bore the engine to the right size... im not sure of that part although some people said they are pretty good on that... but i still doubt...

By the way... the thing im worried about... is that when the head of my Sparkplug broke... and broke my engine... what happened first? did the pistion break causing the break on the sparkplug or did the sparkplug break first? I also need to know if my vavles had some damage also? (from the metal piece that flew from my sparkplug...)

so the questions are... could the metal piece break somthing up on the heads side... and is it possible that the sparkplug would break aloone with nothing comming in contact with it?!

so the thing is i really really need to open my engine and check what happened inside... I know that part... but Im just asking... for experiance of other people...

hmmmm...I didnt know you were having problems with your valves sealing. Besides I'm not trying to say it isn't a good deal for you man. Especially since you couldn't install the block yourself. I was just trying to let everyone else know that the costs can actually be higher even though they are spending less money on the initial product.

oh im not having problems that I know of, Im just saying its something that might want to look into... you know make sure they are sealing properly... Im going to check them simply becasue if I broke the pistons I might have broken something else, but when they did pull the heads off originally to check for oil leakage they didnt see anything but they are going to liquid test them before they reinstall them :thumbsup1:

I still have not made up my mind on how i am going to do it, If i buy the rotating Assembly i have a guy who will build my short block for 350.00, boring will cost 40.00 line hone and all the oil clearances will be included in the 350.00 i save alot buy doing this, but Tc is Tc , hard choice to make !