View Full Version : Getting 2nd Stealth Made....fittment questions


EliteWarMachine
05-02-2007, 11:48 AM
I am getting the Stealth for my 03'.
I have so far:

NGM Stage IV IM
AEM CAI (which will be replaced ofcourse)
MUSSA Dual Exaust
Apexi AFC NEO

I am also ordering today the Zeitronix with the EGT & Boost Sensor.

The person I am getting the stealth from, is Jim. I believe he is the second application of the turbo for the 2.7 V6. He has a Manual, but I have an auto.

My question is, what problems may I run into?

05GT
05-02-2007, 11:50 AM
I believe that some of the piping is different. You need to give T.C a call and ask him for sure.

lostdestiny14
05-02-2007, 02:46 PM
Yeah the piping wont work. You'll need at least mounts to addition on that

EliteWarMachine
05-02-2007, 07:13 PM
Sorry, not following. How much of the piping is different? and what do you mean by mounts? Engine Mounts? I'm working on getting a set right now. Should I get just the front, or all around?

12secTib
05-02-2007, 07:41 PM
I would get the NGM Solid front and a polly rear MM.

05GT
05-02-2007, 07:42 PM
Sorry, not following. How much of the piping is different? and what do you mean by mounts? Engine Mounts? I'm working on getting a set right now. Should I get just the front, or all around?

If you're buying a billet mount, you only need to replace the front. If you're going with the poly units, you'll need to replace the front and rear.

As far was what piping may be different, I'm not completely sure, but the manual and auto engine compartments are a bit different because of the tranny setups. Some of the hot and cold piping may be different.

Contact TC and find out which it is.

EliteWarMachine
05-02-2007, 08:34 PM
I tried calling today, but didn't get an answer, and didn't want to leave a message cause I have no cell at the moment, and thats the only way to catch me. Or on here. You think i could maybe bend up the manual pipes to fit the auto? Using some shop ofcourse.

05GT
05-02-2007, 09:07 PM
I tried calling today, but didn't get an answer, and didn't want to leave a message cause I have no cell at the moment, and thats the only way to catch me. Or on here. You think i could maybe bend up the manual pipes to fit the auto? Using some shop ofcourse.

I honestly don't know man. You can also send him a PM on here. He'll get back to ya.

EliteWarMachine
05-02-2007, 09:14 PM
heh, actually typing one up as you posted this. I'm sure he doesn't have time to read all of new posts anyways. I just relocated the battery. Posted a new Q in the electronics section if anyone wants to take a look. (i'm trying to keep it topic oriented)

nextgen03gt
05-02-2007, 09:45 PM
Hello,

The majority of the kit is the same, but the downpipe is all different. All you really have to do is make the down pipe to go over the transmission and down behind the engine. You should be able to fit the rest of the kit on the car. Its been a long time, I dont remember exactly how tight the piping was on the kit. Its very tight coming up by the trans pan on the auto.

Thanks T.C.

FstrTib
05-02-2007, 09:55 PM
yeah the Auto trans kit has longer piping .......Ian had to cut quite a bit of length out to get the pipe in more of a straight shot

Indifference126
05-03-2007, 12:10 AM
Hello,

The majority of the kit is the same, but the downpipe is all different. All you really have to do is make the down pipe to go over the transmission and down behind the engine. You should be able to fit the rest of the kit on the car. Its been a long time, I dont remember exactly how tight the piping was on the kit. Its very tight coming up by the trans pan on the auto.

Thanks T.C.



accentuated for truth.

EliteWarMachine
05-03-2007, 09:42 AM
Ok, this may seem like a dumb question, since this is all new to me, but would I be able to install everything first, then maybe drive the car to a shop to get just that down pipe made?

---> And how hard would it be to fab it myself?

---> What kind of oil should I use for the turbo setup?

---> How hard is it to remove the upper oil pan on an Auto?

---> What kind of plugs should I use? (I'm keeping the wires for now)

(47,000 miles on it now)

Indifference126
05-03-2007, 04:15 PM
Ok, this may seem like a dumb question, since this is all new to me, but would I be able to install everything first, then maybe drive the car to a shop to get just that down pipe made?

---> And how hard would it be to fab it myself?

---> What kind of oil should I use for the turbo setup?

---> How hard is it to remove the upper oil pan on an Auto?

---> What kind of plugs should I use? (I'm keeping the wires for now)

(47,000 miles on it now)


1) I dont know how good you are at pipe making but its a fairly long pipe with multiple bends in it

2) I switched over to amsoil 10w30 non synthetic but I dont think it really matters

3) not difficult but drain the pan first =)

4) if your sticking with the 4-5PSI setup you need 1 step colder plugs.. if you are going more right off the bat go 2step colder


without the DP on it would make one hell of a ruckus but i dont know if its safe to drive with it off. you would cook everything in your engine bay with superhot exhaust tho =)

Force Fed Flesh
05-03-2007, 04:27 PM
guys is there anyway he can use his existing oil pan instead of performing the major task of swapping oil pans completly?

1-how bad is it to have to tap the pan for the 2 lines with it still attached......i know theres gonna be metal shavings but can they be removed and scooped out if the LOWER oil pan is at least removed>?...or it must be done with the pan OFF the motor


2-if NOT.....then how bad is it gonna be trying to swap and reseal the upper oil pan with the block still in the car......is this even pheasable or is it asking for it

Mines Better
05-03-2007, 05:13 PM
oil pan needs to be taken OFF the motor ant.

on the autos, its a breeze to do.

ant if u got questions bout the setup, jus IM me...im sure i can answer any of ur questions.

im assuming ur helping with the install? i'll be home at the end of may, if u guys want my help too.....

Force Fed Flesh
05-03-2007, 05:48 PM
oil pan needs to be taken OFF the motor ant.

on the autos, its a breeze to do.

ant if u got questions bout the setup, jus IM me...im sure i can answer any of ur questions.

im assuming ur helping with the install? i'll be home at the end of may, if u guys want my help too.....



alright so its gotta come off either way

and yea man we might just take u up on that....doesnt look like the install will happen till around the end of may anyway unless Nick has evrything prepared by then

EliteWarMachine
05-03-2007, 08:17 PM
spent the entire day re-relocating the battery. Yesterday was a temp set-up. Today I ran both (+) and (-) wires. Straight shot from the terminals to the alternator & firewall. I used my power wire already in place for my amp to run power to the Fuse Box, and I taped together the other 2 since they are getting power already from the alternator. It took about 4 hours, but I did it right, and it wasn't that hard...just routing the 2gauge wire was a pain.

The wideband equipment should come tomorrow or Saturday. Either way, I'l install it now (as in...before the turbo), and tie off the wires where they need to be. That one might take a bit longer than the battery.

The headers do need to be drilled and tapped for the o2 sensor. The wideband from zeitronix includes all the threaded bungs we need.

Force Fed Flesh
05-03-2007, 09:58 PM
spent the entire day re-relocating the battery. Yesterday was a temp set-up. Today I ran both (+) and (-) wires. Straight shot from the terminals to the alternator & firewall. I used my power wire already in place for my amp to run power to the Fuse Box, and I taped together the other 2 since they are getting power already from the alternator. It took about 4 hours, but I did it right, and it wasn't that hard...just routing the 2gauge wire was a pain.

The wideband equipment should come tomorrow or Saturday. Either way, I'l install it now (as in...before the turbo), and tie off the wires where they need to be. That one might take a bit longer than the battery.

The headers do need to be drilled and tapped for the o2 sensor. The wideband from zeitronix includes all the threaded bungs we need.



awesome man did it crank up alot better after u re ran them?...how was the power on the inside looking after that...like normal?

and yea man def start installing up that wideband....btw on the sensors make sure theyre tied up good and safe and dry...dont wanna damage em....the boost sensor can come out that main firewall hole and tied up by ur TB area for now......and the EGT and 02 u want goin by the passenger floor hole i was tellin u about.....and u can mount the brain above the glove box and run all the sensor wires there.....the brain will also have a few more wires which gotta go to the ECU for RPM, TPS, power, ground....and u should be set on that

nextgen03gt
05-04-2007, 05:52 PM
Hello,

Here are a few pics to help you with the downpipe for your automatic. This should help a little.

http://www.ngmhouseofpower.com/ngmimages/mini-DSC00550.JPG

http://www.ngmhouseofpower.com/ngmimages/mini-DSC00551.JPG

http://www.ngmhouseofpower.com/ngmimages/mini-DSC00552.JPG

12secTib
05-04-2007, 06:07 PM
Quit posting them damn turbo pics!!! Your making me want it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Scorch
05-04-2007, 06:29 PM
I second that. jesus

chadoffl
05-04-2007, 06:30 PM
I love those pictures. That turbo kit just looks so bad ass in there.

12secTib
05-04-2007, 08:23 PM
lol Its your's Chad is it not? lol

chadoffl
05-04-2007, 09:47 PM
Yeah, it is. Those pictures just tickle me in all the right places.