Well, next weekend my buddy and I plan on installing steel-braided brake lines that have been sitting in my garage for months. Since we'll be doing that, I thought about putting in some performance brake fluid. Which brand do you guys recommend?

Also, is there anything else I need for the install of those new lines? I heard somewhere that the front ones won't sit properly because of the brackets. I'm not sure. Have any of you run into any problems changing your brake lines?

In most cases when swapping out calipers or brake lines altogether, the master cylinder tends to drain before you have the chance to reinstall the new brake line or caliper. (If your just doing calipers with rubber OEM lines, you can clamp the line anywhere along the rubber to avoid totally draining the master cylinder) If you do get air in the lines from the master cylinder being empty, you might have to go about bleeding the ABS which can be a pain in the ass or a trip to Hyundai. To successfully bleed the ABS brake system, you will need a hi-scan (pro) tool. It allows you to run the ABS motor while bleeding the brakes. Otherwise you will have air introduced into your brake lines when the ABS solenoid opens. Plug in scan tool, select “ABS” then select “air bleeding mode” and click “run” to activate the solenoid and ABS motor pump when you’re ready to start the bleeding process. Also with ABS, you want to bleed in this order “1-right rear, 2-front left, 3-right left, 4-front right (not the usual, farthest from the master cylinder technique. And keep the intervals apart from running the ABS motor, you do not want to burn up the moter with repeated use.

In most cases when swapping out calipers or brake lines altogether, the master cylinder tends to drain before you have the chance to reinstall the new brake line or caliper. (If your just doing calipers with rubber OEM lines, you can clamp the line anywhere along the rubber to avoid totally draining the master cylinder) If you do get air in the lines from the master cylinder being empty, you might have to go about bleeding the ABS which can be a pain in the ass or a trip to Hyundai. To successfully bleed the ABS brake system, you will need a hi-scan (pro) tool. It allows you to run the ABS motor while bleeding the brakes. Otherwise you will have air introduced into your brake lines when the ABS solenoid opens. Plug in scan tool, select “ABS” then select “air bleeding mode” and click “run” to activate the solenoid and ABS motor pump when you’re ready to start the bleeding process. Also with ABS, you want to bleed in this order “1-right rear, 2-front left, 3-right left, 4-front right (not the usual, farthest from the master cylinder technique. And keep the intervals apart from running the ABS motor, you do not want to burn up the moter with repeated use.

Thanks for the info :thumbsup5:

So, which brake fluid should I get? I was lookin' at Motul RBF 600. Or is that "too much" performance for my brakes? I'm just N/A right now (i/h/e), but I do alotta "spirited" driving every now and then :drive:

Thanks for the info :thumbsup5:

So, which brake fluid should I get? I was lookin' at Motul RBF 600. Or is that "too much" performance for my brakes? I'm just N/A right now (i/h/e), but I do alotta "spirited" driving every now and then :drive:

I use "SynPowerHigh Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid" (SynPower Dot 3-4) (http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=51) it's good up to 500*, wilwood I think makes something that exceeds dot 4, and you said Motul RBF 600, but I don't think any Tiburon has boiled any brake fluid before or really has made a demand for a product that’s not stocked at your Napa or pep boys. I autocross once or twice a year on a big brake kit, the track I use demands the brake fluid to be with 90 days old. The fluids I drained out and put in were about the same in color, and I can account for thousand of hard stops and about 10k of daily driving. Not so with other fluids I’ve used before.

I use "SynPowerHigh Performance Synthetic Brake Fluid" (SynPower Dot 3-4) (http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=51) it's good up to 500*, wilwood I think makes something that exceeds dot 4, and you said Motul RBF 600, but I don't think any Tiburon has boiled any brake fluid before or really has made a demand for a product that’s not stocked at your Napa or pep boys. I autocross once or twice a year on a big brake kit, the track I use demands the brake fluid to be with 90 days old. The fluids I drained out and put in were about the same in color, and I can account for thousand of hard stops and about 10k of daily driving. Not so with other fluids I’ve used before.

Ok... so about how many bottles would I need of it?

Probably one big bottle would be fine...when I did my SS brake lines I didn't even go through probably half that bottle. I just used the Prestone stuff I think it's got a dry boiling point of 470*

Probably one big bottle would be fine...when I did my SS brake lines I didn't even go through probably half that bottle. I just used the Prestone stuff I think it's got a dry boiling point of 470* i agree, i bought two bottles when i picked up the brake fluid, i only used 2/3 of one, so i returned the unopened bottle the next day.
it's good to have more then you need, i do alot of my car wrenching when my kids are asleep so i can't aford to not have a part or extra fluids in the middle of the night.

In most cases when swapping out calipers or brake lines altogether, the master cylinder tends to drain before you have the chance to reinstall the new brake line or caliper. (If your just doing calipers with rubber OEM lines, you can clamp the line anywhere along the rubber to avoid totally draining the master cylinder) If you do get air in the lines from the master cylinder being empty, you might have to go about bleeding the ABS which can be a pain in the ass or a trip to Hyundai. To successfully bleed the ABS brake system, you will need a hi-scan (pro) tool. It allows you to run the ABS motor while bleeding the brakes. Otherwise you will have air introduced into your brake lines when the ABS solenoid opens. Plug in scan tool, select “ABS” then select “air bleeding mode” and click “run” to activate the solenoid and ABS motor pump when you’re ready to start the bleeding process. Also with ABS, you want to bleed in this order “1-right rear, 2-front left, 3-right left, 4-front right (not the usual, farthest from the master cylinder technique. And keep the intervals apart from running the ABS motor, you do not want to burn up the moter with repeated use.
Me and john didn't do that when i rubbed a hole in one of the Hard lines off the master cylinder, and my car brakes just fine

Me and john didn't do that when i rubbed a hole in one of the Hard lines off the master cylinder, and my car brakes just fine
I’ve had many successful brake jobs on my tib and others with out having to touch the scan tool. In a different case, when replacing everything, I had all lines off, and had to wait on a big break kit from Korea much longer then the estimated time. (Leaving the s/b lines hanging with out calipers for weeks) I had also flushed the entire system to ensure all fluid was new. you might not notice a small amount of air, (as I haven’t in the past with brakes and ABS working 100% … but when you get a large enough amount, it can result in good hard breaking for one second, until maybe one wheel hits a slick spot/gravel, then the abs takes full control and is all sponge, no stop. no pulse, no hint of slowing down...etc. I did a complete overhaul, and had a lot of time between start and finish so if there was a chance I had air in the abs portion of the braking system, I’m sure it found its way in. that’s how I learned how to bleed with the abs motors

Yeah my car sat for about a month, that was fun coming up to a stop light then bam pedal went to the floor and was about 4 miles from home E-Braked it all the way home that was fun. :drive: